Suzdal and Vladimir: a slow weekend on the Golden Ring
The Golden Ring is a loose loop of old towns north-east of Moscow. You could rush through five of them in a weekend, but I would rather see two properly. Vladimir and Suzdal are close to each other and easy to reach by train, which makes them a natural pair.
Vladimir
Vladimir is a working city with a remarkable old centre. The Assumption Cathedral stands on the high bank above the river, and a few minutes away the Cathedral of Saint Demetrius is covered in white-stone carvings: lions, griffins, saints and creatures that are hard to name. Walk around it slowly; every side tells a different story. The Golden Gate, once the main entrance to the city, is at the other end of the main street.
The walk to the Nerl
Take a local bus or a taxi to Bogolyubovo, then walk across the meadow to the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl. It is a small, almost weightless building standing alone near the water, and it has been there since the twelfth century. In spring the meadow floods; in September it is dry, quiet and golden. The walk takes around half an hour each way.
Suzdal
Suzdal is a short bus ride from Vladimir and feels like a different world: low houses, gardens, onion domes in every direction and very little traffic. Visit the Kremlin, then cross the river to the Museum of Wooden Architecture, where log churches and peasant houses from the region have been brought together in one place.
Stay the night if you can. After the day visitors leave, the town becomes very quiet, and an evening walk along the river is the best part of the trip. Try the local mead — it is sold everywhere and comes in more flavours than seems reasonable.
Practical notes
Fast daytime trains run from Moscow to Vladimir. Buses to Suzdal leave from the bus station next to Vladimir railway station. Book a room in Suzdal early on autumn weekends.